Seed Library

Annual. Old kitchen garden flower, 18–20" tall, also known as Pot Marigold. Beautiful daisy-like flowers feed pollinators, are good for informal bouquets, and are also edible. Blossoms can be snipped from their stems, dried and added to soups, salads and stews. They are also used in homeopathic remedies and herbal tinctures and ointments for their antiseptic and soothing qualities. 

Culture: Calendulas bloom over an extremely long period, thriving in cool weather and persisting through autumn’s first frosts. Can be direct seeded in May or started indoors in cool place for early blooms. Readily self-sows. Don’t crowd, give them full sun. Deadhead to keep blooms coming and the patch attractive, or try succession plantings. 

Annual. Sun-loving, free-flowering all summer, can serve as an accent, screen or cutflower. Colorful daisy-style flowers with yellow centers bloom amidst lacy cut foliage. Attracts a broad range of beneficial insects. 

Culture: For best results, thin its fast-growing large plants. Deadhead for persistent blooms. Harvest cutflowers when petals on first flower are just opening. Don’t wait too long! Old blooms don’t last. Vase life is 4–6 days. Light aids germination. May be started indoors at 70–75° (grow on at 60–65°) or direct seeded after last frost. Space 9–12". Tolerant of drought. 

Annual. Easily grown climber with trumpet-shaped flowers provides color and shade, decorates fence or post. 

Culture: Plant with eastern exposure for best results. Nick the seeds with a file and soak overnight to speed germination. Germinates in 2 weeks at 75–80°. Sow outdoors after danger of frost or indoors in peat pots as they resent transplanting. Overly rich soil will yield excess foliage and sparse blooms. 

Annual. Known as Youth and Old Age in the 1800s, this showy genus was named for German botany professor Johann Gottfried Zinn (1727-1759). Easy to grow from seed and a favorite for bright color in Maine summers. Zinnia flower essence is used to bring out playfulness and lightheartedness. 

Culture: Sow in a sunny spot after last frost, or start indoors for earlier blooms. Germinates 3–5 days at 80–85°, more slowly at cooler temperatures. Grow on at 70° days, 60–65° at night. Temperatures below 60° delay flowering and may induce chlorosis. Space at 9–12". 

They need good drainage and like heat. Market grower Jason Kafka says zinnias perform better in tunnels than in the field. With the extra heat they get so big that “they think they are in New Jersey.” Cut when flowers are almost fully mature, just before pollen starts to form. Deadhead to continue production. 

Also known as Roquette or Rocket. Musky green and its piquant blossoms will spice up your salad. 

Culture: Prefers cool temperatures; direct seed as early as possible in spring. Optimum germination temp 40–55°. Bolts in heat; avoid the heat and grow as a fall crop, or make succession plantings every 1-2 weeks. Use row covers to discourage flea beetles. Let part of a spring crop go to seed and get a self-sown September and October patch that is delicious and has no flea beetle damage! A prime ingredient in tangy mesclun mixes. Frequent watering will reduce its pungency. Suitable for microgreens. 

Saving Seed: Saving arugula seed is easy! Let your spring sowing of arugula bolt. The flowers develop into narrow seed pods. Once pods dry on the stems, they can be easily broken open for seed. 

Pick frequently for maximum and steady yields, but avoid harvesting or disturbing foliage in wet conditions to prevent spread of fungal diseases. Successive plantings can be made every 2 or 3 weeks until midsummer. 

Culture: Tender, will not survive frost. Inoculate with a legume inoculant, then plant seeds 3–4" apart in rows 24–30" apart after all danger of frost has passed and soil has warmed. Minimum germination soil temperature 60°; optimal range 70–80°. White-seeded beans are generally more sensitive to cold soil temps than dark-seeded varieties. Legumes have moderate fertility needs and can fix their own nitrogen. 

Saving Seed: Saving bean seed is easy! Leave pods on the plants to dry. Hand shell, or stomp pods on a tarp. To ensure true-to-type seed, separate varieties by 30 feet. 

Culture: May be started indoors for early production, or direct-seeded when soil has warmed. Minimum germination soil temperature 65°, optimal range 65–95°. Very tender, will not survive frost. Direct seed 3" apart thinning to 1' apart in rows 4–6' apart or 6 per mound in hills 4' apart thinning to 3 best plants. For transplants: once seedlings have 1–2 true leaves, about 3 weeks old, plant 1' apart in rows 4–6' apart. Cucumbers require good fertility and regular rain or irrigation for abundant yields. Without adequate water, fruits will be misshapen and bitter. Pick cukes frequently for best production, or else the plants shut down. Make sure to remove blimps to the compost pile. 

Saving Seed: Saving cucumber seed is easy! Take that big yellow cuke that got away and save it for seed. Scoop out the guts of overripe fruit and ferment it in an uncovered container for a few days. A moldy gross cap to the slurry means the seeds are ready to rinse and dry. To ensure true-to-type seed, grow only one open-pollinated variety per season. 

Culture: Direct seed outdoors as soon as ground can be worked and repeat every 2 weeks for continuous supply. Or start indoors in March and at regular intervals thereafter for early transplanted successions. Optimal germination temperature range 40–70° though many varieties won’t germinate in soil temps above 75° and most shut down above 80°. Thin sowings frequently and ruthlessly to a final distance of 1' for full heads. Heavy nitrogen feeders. 

Hardy. All save icebergs tolerate heavy frost. Fall and overwintered harvests are becoming standard practice. For summer harvest, select varieties carefully: bolting, bottom rot and tipburn are problems if a variety can’t take the heat! Using shade cloth can keep lettuce tender and sweet longer into summer. Sesquiterpene lactones produced in the latex render lettuce bitter when it bolts. 

Saving Seed: Saving lettuce seed is easy! Leave spring-planted lettuce heads to bolt. Flowers will become white tufted seeds. Once dry on stalk, rub seeds off the plant into a paper bag. To ensure true-to-type seed, separate lettuce varieties by 10 feet. 

Culture: Direct seed outdoors as soon as ground can be worked and repeat every 2 weeks for continuous supply. Or start indoors in March and at regular intervals thereafter for early transplanted successions. Optimal germination temperature range 40–70° though many varieties won’t germinate in soil temps above 75° and most shut down above 80°. Thin sowings frequently and ruthlessly to a final distance of 1' for full heads. Heavy nitrogen feeders. 

Hardy. All save icebergs tolerate heavy frost. Fall and overwintered harvests are becoming standard practice. For summer harvest, select varieties carefully: bolting, bottom rot and tipburn are problems if a variety can’t take the heat! Using shade cloth can keep lettuce tender and sweet longer into summer. Sesquiterpene lactones produced in the latex render lettuce bitter when it bolts. 

Saving Seed: Saving lettuce seed is easy! Leave spring-planted lettuce heads to bolt. Flowers will become white tufted seeds. Once dry on stalk, rub seeds off the plant into a paper bag. To ensure true-to-type seed, separate lettuce varieties by 10 feet. 

Culture: Set seedlings out 1–2" deep and 6–8" apart in shallow trenches, 1–2' between rows. Onions survive light frosts. After half the onion tops fall, push over the remainder and harvest within a week. Field-cure in the sun about 10 days until dry, covering with a tarp in wet weather. In the event of extreme heat or prolonged damp conditions, we recommend sheltered curing in a well-ventilated barn or greenhouse. Curing is essential for long storage. Store cured onions in mesh sacks in a cool dry well-ventilated place, periodically removing sprouting or rotting bulbs. In spring, put your remaining onions in the fridge to extend storage until your new crop is ready. 

Onions are triggered to form bulbs in response to day length. Day length differs depending on latitude, so different onion varieties were developed to have different day-length needs. In the north, the earlier onions are set out, the more chance they have to make top growth while the days are lengthening. High fertility and steady water is crucial for large onions. Side dressing is recommended. After summer solstice they begin bulbing. 

Culture: Seed is short-lived; if you are planning to use old seed, germ test in paper towels before sowing. Minimum germination temperature 46°, optimal range 55–77°. Slow to germinate (14–21 days). Prepare a deep seedbed and keep it moist with frequent watering until emergence. Sow about 1" apart in mid-spring. Thin to 2–3". Parsnips require a full growing season. Suitable for harvest after frost for late fall delights. Parsnips left to overwinter in the ground will nearly triple their fall sugar content. For the best early spring treats, harvest as soon as possible before the plants resume growth. Roots become more woody as the plants re-grow. 

Seed Saving: Save some plants for seed in year 2. Plants will shoot up 6' before July-Aug. Homegrown parsnip seed often is better and more viable than any you can buy on the market. 

Culture: Sow as early as ground can be worked for best yields. Minimum soil temperature for pea seed germination: 40°. Optimal range 50–75°. Peas are legumes with moderate fertility requirements. Avoid excess nitrogen: they can fix their own. Use a legume inoculant at planting. They prefer cool, moist weather and dislike dry heat. 

All peas produce more when staked; varieties over 2½' must be supported. Use either Trellis Netting or chicken wire. Install support at planting time to avoid disturbing seedlings. Plant 8–10 seeds/ft on each side of supports in double rows. Set supports for rows 3' apart (5' if very tall varieties). 

Young plants are very hardy but frost stops production at the blossom or pod stage. If you love peas as much as we do, try for a second crop in the fall. Timing is crucial, as peas ripen slowly in the cool of September, and frost will halt production. We recommend planting the first two weeks of July for a fall crop in central Maine. Warmer areas try later July. If the summer is hot, cool the soil with a hay mulch in advance of planting, or shade peas with tall crops to hold in soil moisture. 

Saving Seed: Saving pea seed is easy! Leave pods of spring-planted peas on the vine to dry. Hand shell, or stomp pods on a tarp. To ensure true-to-type seed, separate pea varieties by 30 feet. 

Culture: Start indoors in March or April. Minimum germination soil temperature 60°, optimal range 68-95°. Set out in June. Very tender, will not tolerate frost, dislike wind, will not set fruit in cold or extremely hot temperatures or in drought conditions. Black plastic highly recommended. Row cover improves fruit set in windy spots. Pick first green peppers when they reach full size to increase total yield significantly. Green peppers, though edible, are not ripe. Peppers ripen to red, yellow, orange, etc. 

Saving Seed: Saving pepper seed is easy! Remove core of the fully ripe pepper (usually red or orange) and dry on a coffee filter. When dry, rake seeds off the core with a butter knife. To ensure true-to-type seed, grow open- pollinated varieties and separate by 30 feet. Use only the first fruits for seed; allow only 3–4 fruits per plant to grow and remove all others. Fewer fruits = larger seeds = greater seed viability. Later fruits often have germination rates of only 60%. 

Culture: Start indoors in March or April. Minimum germination soil temperature 60°, optimal range 68-95°. Set out in June. Very tender, will not tolerate frost, dislike wind, will not set fruit in cold or extremely hot temperatures or in drought conditions. Black plastic highly recommended. Row cover improves fruit set in windy spots. Pick first green peppers when they reach full size to increase total yield significantly. Green peppers, though edible, are not ripe. Peppers ripen to red, yellow, orange, etc. 

Saving Seed: Saving pepper seed is easy! Remove core of the fully ripe pepper (usually red or orange) and dry on a coffee filter. When dry, rake seeds off the core with a butter knife. To ensure true-to-type seed, grow open- pollinated varieties and separate by 30 feet. Use only the first fruits for seed; allow only 3–4 fruits per plant to grow and remove all others. Fewer fruits = larger seeds = greater seed viability. Later fruits often have germination rates of only 60%. 

Culture: May be direct-seeded or transplanted. Direct seeding: Sow 4–5 seeds per hill when weather has warmed after danger of frost. Allow 4–6' between hills. Thin to 3 best plants. Use row covers and low tunnels to hasten maturity and reduce insect damage. Transplanting: Start indoors three weeks before setting out. Do not disturb the roots. Transplant bush varieties 18" apart, vining varieties 30" apart. Tender, not frost hardy. Heavy nitrogen feeders. Excessive heat and/or drought can prevent blossom set, reduce yields. Pumpkins can take one or two light frosts on the vine. To improve flavor and storage, field cure for at least 10 days after harvest, covering if hard frost threatens. Store under proper conditions, at least 50° and 60–70% relative humidity in a place with good air circulation. Do not pile up pumpkins. Inspect periodically and be sure to use damaged, stemless or small fruit first. Minimum germination temperature 60°, optimal temperature range 70–90°. 

Saving Seed: Saving pumpkin seed is challenging! We list three species of the genus Cucurbita: C. pepo, C. maxima and C. moschata. Varieties of the same species will cross readily, but crossing will not occur between the different species. You must isolate varieties of the same species by half a mile if you want true-to-type seed. This is difficult for most gardeners—you may have to communicate and collaborate with neighboring gardeners, or exclude insects from blossoms and hand-pollinate. If you can pull off the variety isolation, processing the seeds is easy: rinse seeds from the guts of fully ripe and cured pumpkin. Dry and store. 

Culture: Very hardy, spinach prefers cool temperatures. Planted as soon as the ground can be worked in spring to avoid early bolting. Minimum germination temperature 35°, optimal range 45–65°. Spinach seed will not germinate in soil temperatures above 85°. For fall crop try late July–Aug. sowing; to overwinter, sow late Aug.–Sept. Heavy nitrogen requirements, but avoid applying high-nitrogen fertilizers shortly before harvest to prevent high nitrate levels in the leaves. 

Pick large leaves often for heavier production. Smooth-leaved spinach is easier to wash than the semi-savoyed type and is increasingly preferred. Heat, crowding and long day-length (over 14 hours) trigger premature bolting. To retard bolting, avoid hot-weather planting, use wider spacing and irrigate or use shade cloth. 

Culture: Usually started indoors Feb–April. Minimum germination soil temperature 60°, optimal range 75–90°. Transplant after frost danger has passed. Avoid using fresh manure as it causes lush foliage with few ripe fruits. Instead use generous amounts of well-rotted cow or horse manure or compost to boost plant vigor, and crushed eggshells or gypsum at the bottom of each hole for calcium. Heavy phosphorus needs. Responds well to foliar sprays. 

Saving Seed: Saving tomato seed is easy! Remove stem-end and crush the fully ripe fruit into a container. Ferment uncovered for a few days until the slurry forms a moldy cap. Rinse in a fine strainer and dry seeds on a coffee filter. To ensure true-to-type seed, grow open-pollinated varieties and separate by 50 feet. 

Culture: Usually started indoors Feb–April. Minimum germination soil temperature 60°, optimal range 75–90°. Transplant after frost danger has passed. Avoid using fresh manure as it causes lush foliage with few ripe fruits. Instead use generous amounts of well-rotted cow or horse manure or compost to boost plant vigor, and crushed eggshells or gypsum at the bottom of each hole for calcium. Heavy phosphorus needs. Responds well to foliar sprays. 

Saving Seed: Saving tomato seed is easy! Remove stem-end and crush the fully ripe fruit into a container. Ferment uncovered for a few days until the slurry forms a moldy cap. Rinse in a fine strainer and dry seeds on a coffee filter. To ensure true-to-type seed, grow open-pollinated varieties and separate by 50 feet. 

Culture: Usually started indoors Feb–April. Minimum germination soil temperature 60°, optimal range 75–90°. Transplant after frost danger has passed. Avoid using fresh manure as it causes lush foliage with few ripe fruits. Instead use generous amounts of well-rotted cow or horse manure or compost to boost plant vigor, and crushed eggshells or gypsum at the bottom of each hole for calcium. Heavy phosphorus needs. Responds well to foliar sprays. 

Saving Seed: Saving tomato seed is easy! Remove stem-end and crush the fully ripe fruit into a container. Ferment uncovered for a few days until the slurry forms a moldy cap. Rinse in a fine strainer and dry seeds on a coffee filter. To ensure true-to-type seed, grow open-pollinated varieties and separate by 50 feet.